Dhroner Grosser Hengelberg Monopollage Riesling

This is flirting with perfection. Just opened and clearly still not fully unfurled, but already an absolute freak show. The nose is a full scene in nature: peach skin, apricot, tangelo, blood orange, Mosel slate, pine forest, a little blueberry, then with air this wild confectionary layer comes in, like a carnival in the forest. Now there is sea-air minerality too, and the whole aromatic field is getting more complete by the minute. The palate is the real astonishment. It has the texture of great white Burgundy, almost Leflaive-like in its glide and polish, but with no oak, no fat, nothing covering the signal. Just purity. Insane purity. The acidity is architectural, giving the wine line, lift, shape, precision and total command. Juicy, sapid, almost tannic on the finish, unbelievably elegant and harmonious. As it opens, the structure starts to dominate, but everything stays cohesive, integrated, and alive. The finish is a mineral blizzard, endless, fanning out for minutes, and still nowhere near where it will be tomorrow. Steinmetz wines are friendly on opening, then they just keep gaining depth, but this is already profound. One of the great dry Mosel Rieslings I have tasted.