Jay Kline

9.5

Poured into a decanter about an hour prior to service; enjoyed over the course of dinner. The 2009 pours a deep garnet color with an opaque core and a burnished rim; medium+ viscosity with significant staining of the tears and plenty of sediment. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of ripe black fruits: black plum, salmiakki, mixed flowers, some nail polish, blood, wild herbs, a mix of organic and inorganic earth and exotic spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with high tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose, the finish is long. It’s been several years since my last 2009 Pagliaro and it certainly hasn’t lost any of its potency. A special wine from a special vineyard cared for by a special producer. Drink now with a decant through 2039-ish. Bottle No. 3815/9570 — 5 months ago

Jay Kline

9.2

Paolo Bea dinner at Semo. All wines were prepared by opening and slow-ox, prior to service. Abbreviated notes due to the setting. The 2022 Cotidie pours a dull, pale ruby. The bouquet is fresh and breezy with pure Bing cherry, mixed flowers and green herbs. An elegant expression of Cotidie that’s medium in structure. Pretty stuff and a solid pairing with the pork belly. Drink now through 2032+. Bottle No. 927/2385 — 5 months ago

Jay Kline

9.6

Paolo Bea dinner at Semo. All wines were prepared by opening and slow-ox, prior to service. Abbreviated notes due to the setting. The wines of Paolo and Giampiero Bea are very special to me and I am grateful to have enjoyed so many of them, over the years. However, the Passito is extremely rare and this is my first encounter. The 2011 pours a garnet color with a most interesting and attractive nose of Castelvetrano olives, dark cherry, salmiakki, and palo santo. I would categorize this as off-dry; certainly not sweet. There’s excellent structure too so that may play a role in my perception of sugar. Perhaps the profile varies from vintage to vintage however, if this is representative, I could see myself going well out of my way to drink this. Brilliant. Drink now through 2036. Bottle No. 1716/3699 — 5 months ago

Jay Kline

9.3

Poured into a decanter about 30 minutes prior to service and enjoyed over the course of a few hours. The 2019 San Valentino pours a deep ruby/purple color with a near opaque core; medium+ viscosity with moderate staining of the tears and a decent amount of sediment. On the nose, the wine is developing with sensational notes of Bing cherry, plum, licorice, Palo Santo, varnish, balsamico, exotic spices, and a mix of dried under brush and earth. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannin and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose . The finish is long and there is no shortage of excitement. A wine that simultaneously makes you think and fills you with joy. Drink now through 2034. — 9 months ago

Jay Kline

9.0

Popped and poured. The 2019 Antonelli “Spoleto” pours a slightly turbid, deep golden color. Yellow flowers, quince, and dried apricot with medium acid and a medium finish. Crushable. 1/2 the Paolo Bea at 1/2 the price. I’m shelling out for the Bea if I can find it. Otherwise, this is a nice alternative for sure. Drink now and over the next 5 years. — 3 years ago

Loren Gesinsky

9.4

Not as delightfully savage as Paolo Bea. But still recognizably a powerful sagrantino. — 3 years ago

Jay Kline

9.5

Paolo Bea dinner at Semo. All wines were prepared by opening and slow-ox, prior to service. Abbreviated notes due to the setting. The 2019 Cerrete is a veritable abyss: deep, dark, dense and mysterious. Dark cherry, licorice, blood and sneaky high tannin. So young. I thought this worked well with the venison. Almost impossible to believe this is 15.5%; everything is so balanced. Drink now through 2049. Bottle No. 161/9639 — 5 months ago

Jay Kline

9.4

Paolo Bea dinner at Semo. All wines were prepared by opening and slow-ox, prior to service. Abbreviated notes due to the setting. The 2015 Arboreus pours the color and cloudiness of urine after a 3 day bender with little hydration. Notes of bruised and battered Apple, dried stone fruit, white and yellow flowers, mushroom, damp hay, and nuts. Low tannin on the palate and good acid. Drink now through 2030+. Bottle No. 3505/11970 — 5 months ago

Jay Kline

9.3

Paolo Bea dinner at Semo. All wines were prepared by opening and slow-ox, prior to service. Abbreviated notes due to the setting. The 2020 Lapideus pours a hazy straw color with notes of undigested hay, black lemon, Brachs butterscotch, white and yellow flowers, and some tarragon. The palate shows low+ tannin and acid works well with the halibut crudo. Drink now through 2035. Bottle No. 800/2610 — 5 months ago

Brian Hearty

9.3

2016. Sour cherry and brett flavors. This wine has always been a favorite. — 8 months ago

naomi gl

9.0

nuns made this wine! with paolo bea!! kind of reductive, nutty, a little appley, almost a sherry quality but solid acidity to hold it together. — a year ago

Jay Kline

9.4

This was poured into a decanter about 30 minutes prior to service; no formal notes. This bottle of 2013 “Ribolla” was poured alongside the 2012 Paolo Bea “Arboreus” and they we remarkably similar. The Gravner pours a burnished gold color and was more dried apricot than peach (Arboreus) along with honeysuckle, marmalade and nuts. As with the Arboreus, this is a mind expanding wine, super complex. You could hold and drink through 2030 but why would you want to when it’s this great right now?
— 3 years ago

Jay Kline

9.5

Having some previous experience with this wine, I knew it was going to need some significant air so I opened the night before and Audouzed until just before our dinner of Cacciucco (a traditional Tuscan seafood stew). So we’re talking close to 20 hours and I think that was just about perfect.

The 2018 “Harenae” pours a deep ruby color with a translucent core. No signs of sediment. Medium viscosity and just a slight staining of the tears. On the nose, well…I’m already swooning. The freshest Morello cherries with a mix of Tuscan herbs, black tea and dry earth. On the palate, the wine is dry with firm tannins and quite a stiff spine of acidity too. Again, the sour cherry fruit is predominate but it’s so perfectly ripened. There’s other crunchy red fruits too: some cranberry and some pomegranate along with some limestone minerals. The finish lingers for well over a minute.

It’s been 15 months since my last note on the 2018 “Harenae” and I find myself just as smitten as I was in late 2020. I’m captivated by its energy and purity of expression. Evolution has been slow and considering the structure, I fully expect this to be drinking well for at least another 8-10 years. But the freshness is really quite something to behold so I have to recommend getting that experience for those who are curious. Just give it plenty of air before you settle down with it. For what it’s worth, we drank this alongside the 2015 Paolo Bea “Santa Chiara” and both were a lovely accompaniment to the Cacciucco. — 4 years ago

Jay Kline

9.3

Paolo Bea dinner at Semo. All wines were prepared by opening and slow-ox, prior to service. Abbreviated notes due to the setting. The 2018 Rosso de Véo pours a deep garnet with wild dark fruit, high end dark dark chocolate cherry cordial, some VA giving it some balsamic notes. Sanguine with high tannin. Loving it with the pork ragu lasagnette made with semolina flour from the Bea farm. Drink now with patience, through 2038. Bottle No. 77/4626 — 5 months ago

Jay Kline

9.2

Paolo Bea dinner at Semo. All wines were prepared by opening and slow-ox, prior to service. Abbreviated notes due to the setting. The The 2020 Santa Chiara appears a deep orange color with notes of marmalade, apricot, flowers, and varnish (VA). The palate shows low+ tannin and decent acid. Tasty, complex stuff as usual. A lovely pairing with gougère of prosciutto, green olive and honey. Drink now through 2030-ish. Bottle No. 2814/5940 — 5 months ago

Jay Kline

9.3

Paolo Bea dinner at Semo. All wines were prepared by opening and slow-ox, prior to service. Abbreviated notes due to the setting. The 2017 Pipparello pours a garnet color with funky Montmorency cherry, red carnations, and balsamic notes. Wonderful structure and delicious with the quail. Drink now with patience through 2037. Bottle No. 642/9930 — 5 months ago

Clay Bullwinkel

9.4

Excellent Sagrantino. Paolo Bea is not alone. — 8 months ago

Clay Bullwinkel

9.3

The nuns and Paolo Bea. Robust hearty orange wine blend. — a year ago

Jay Kline

9.3

If the late Paolo Bea ever made a Brunello, it might resemble something like this. The 2008 Colleone BdM pours a deep garnet; slightly browning with some rim variation. Medium+ viscosity with no staining of the tears. Some light signs of sediment. On the nose, the wine is vinous with a mostly desiccated fruit profile: cherries, dried red flowers, tomatoes, balsamic, leather, and spices. Definitely some VA; “it must be Italian!” On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannins and medium+ acid. The notes from the nose are confirmed. The finish is long and layered. I want more time with wine; it’s a story teller. This 2008, compared to the 2006 La Torre from the other night, just has a bit more structure to it and having enough experience with both vintages, that tracks. Drink now and through 2028. — 2 years ago

Jay Kline

9.4

Something quite magical often happens to Rafanelli Zinfandel after 10+ years of bottle age. I can’t explain it…but these wines begin to take on a more rustic, Old World feel. It’s as if they shift into an overdrive. The fruit is still big, beautiful and pure (no-doubt a testament to their rigorous selection) and yet they can often display a new energy about them which give them remarkable longevity. This bottle is perfectly representative.

Opened to celebrate my daughter’s 14th birthday, the 2009 Rafanelli Zinfandel pours a deep, practically opaque garnet that becomes more turbid the further we delved into the bottle (in typical fashion, this Rafanelli full of sediment). Medium+ viscosity with moderate staining of the tears. On the nose, bright cherry and bramble-like fruits, Asian spices, espresso and some black pepper. I do sense a touch of VA. On the palate, the wine is dry and with medium tannin and medium+ acid. The notes from the nose are confirmed…with a bit of added emphasis, it should be noted. There’s almost a Pop Rocks experience too…with the slightest effervescence pricking the tongue. And again, this is something that I would more expect from a non-interventionalist wine from Italy…certainly not from Sonoma. Hot take here…but this bottle reminded me of something from Paolo Bea (San Valentino) more than anything from Sonoma, let alone California. It’s just so wonderful. The finish is long and delivers minutes of pleasure.

As far as I’m concerned, nobody is making Zinfandel with the soul that Rafanelli does and the proof is in the bottle each and every time. Of course, they are delicious when young but with age, these wines become something else. Drink now with a decant (for sediment only) and through 2034. — 3 years ago